Deciding to sell your car is one thing. Knowing what’s to come after your mind is made up is another.
It’s not a complicated process, just one that has far more steps than anticipated – and if you’re unprepared, you’ll find yourself in a jam at the worst time possible, like when the buyer is in your driveway asking questions you hadn’t anticipated yet.
This is what happens after you’ve decided to sell.
Gathering Your Paperwork (Yes, Already)
The first thing you’ll need to do is gather your paperwork. It’s a no-brainer but this is where everyone gets stuck in some manner.
You’ll need the title or certificate of registration, any detailed service records you have, notes on major repairs or upgrades. You’ll also need to figure this out quickly and if you’re still under any credit loans, it’s a more complicated issue – it’s best to talk to the lender about next steps to figure out all options available and how to appropriately transfer the title.
Most people will find they’re missing at least one crucial piece of documentation – service records often go missing. If you don’t have yours, call up the workshops; they’re likely to house digital versions and can email you a copy.
Getting Real on Value
Now comes the part where you think you know your number but find it difficult to justify.
You likely have a number in your mind that you’d like to get for your car. That number is almost guaranteed higher than what buyers will pay. It’s not personal – your car’s valuation number comes from different sources.
Online valuation tools are great but they’re vaguely presented. Your car’s market value relies on condition, service history, how common your car is in the local area, and comparable cars that are currently for sale. Take time to see what they’re selling for – not what the sellers want – but what previous buyers actually sold them for.
At this point you also need to determine if you’re going to sell privately or if you’d want to sell my car through a dealer or service that would do the legwork for you. Selling privately often gives you more money for time invested; selling through a reputable service or dealer might bring you less cash, however, it saves weeks of time having back and forth conversations with potential buyers and continual listings.
Sprucing up the Car (More Than Just a Bath)
Here’s where the convenience turns expensive if you’re not careful.
You’ll need to determine what repairs or improvements are worth the investment. A professional detail is almost always worth it – it’s worth its weight in gold in photos and as a first impression. However, that slightly worn driver’s seat? Probably not going to recoup costs on that.
Get the lights checked, repair anything that’s making noise when it shouldn’t be. This also means cleaning every inch – everything you’ve put off these past few years; your car hasn’t been this clean in ages. Think under the seats, door jambs, and yes, finally deciding what’s going on in the trunk.
Don’t underestimate the exterior – small paint scratches and scuffs can be buffed at a low investment; headlight restoration kits run $20 and can make a decade-old car look several years younger.
Taking Non-Terrible Photos
Your photography does most of the convincing before anyone sees your car in person.
Take photos in daylight – but not too bright of light; cloudy conditions are better because there are no obnoxious shadows. Get shots of all four corners and from varying angles inside, as well as the engine bay and odometer readings, plus, any dings or damage that show wear and tear – if you’re transparent with what you’re selling, people will trust you more.
Most people take awful photos – pictures in their dark garage, using dirty cars, up close and personal with nothing in-between. Don’t let your photos make someone swipe left – make them want to come check it out in person instead of swiping away.
Writing an Ad That Isn’t Sketchy
The description isn’t as straightforward as it seems.
You’ll want to include bullet point details – year, make/model, kilometers ran, transmission type, fuel type and how many miles left on its registration. Then you outline condition, service history, reason for selling and what makes yours better than another seller’s ad down the block.
The caveat? Strike enthusiasm without falsehoods; if people come expecting something better than what you’ve pitched, they’re disappointed – and if they think you’re underselling it and wanting to sell quickly, they may not even bother coming for a look.
Mention upfront concerns – a small scuff on the rear bumper sounds better than allowing a buyer to find it for themselves only wondering what else you’re hiding behind without honesty from get-go. In fact, being candid about any issues actually helps you sell quicker than expected.
Taking the Calls/Texting Nonstop
Once your ad goes live, expect constant interruptions from your phone not leaving you alone.
You’re going to get serious buyers, time wasters, scammers and people who clearly didn’t read through your entire ad properly; someone will offer half your asking price because they need new tires; someone else will ask if they can buy your car three states away; multiple people will schedule meetings only for none of them to show up.
It’s normal – and exhausting – but it’s part of the reality of sales.
Know how you’re going to respond with a canned answer for general questions like “how flexible is your price?” “are you willing to drive this three hours?” “can I test drive?” Determine your rock bottom price beforehand. Do not agree to test drives without seeing driver’s licenses first – and trust your gut; if someone seems sketchy, they probably are.
Inspection/Test Drive
When someone finally shows up with a good vibe – let them fully inspect and ask any clarifying questions about things you weren’t certain of before now. If they want a mechanic or pre-purchase inspection that’s welcomed, this is an added bonus – they’re serious.
If they want to test drive it – great! But they should be nervous about that – you’re handing them a stranger your car – go along with them! If they refuse either of these conditions, then there is no test drive.
Some buyers are going to nickel-and-dime you after the test drive; that’s fine – they’re just trying to find problem areas worth discussing – but know what’s genuine versus someone trying to take money off for everything possible.
Finalizing Payment
If someone wants your car they still need paperwork done! You’ll fill out an ownership transfer form along with whatever documents you’ve outlined as important – and they should also set their payment with you at this time! Cash is king – but if it’s an expensive vehicle bank transfers or bank checks are best; personal checks are never acceptable.
Understand local considerations – you’ll usually have to notify the proper authority that you’ve sold it as well so down the line you’re not responsible should anything happen.
How Long People Don’t Tell You It Takes
From cut-to-sell it’ll range from three days to three months max. Cars that come with extensive service history where demand is high will be gone within a week; unusual makes/styles or higher prices or worse presentation could take months of listing after listing after listing – and typically sales happen within 3-6 weeks if everything is reasonably priced appropriately and presented correctly.
It takes work – but knowing what’s involved makes it less daunting than overwhelming!
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